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Friday, 8 August 2014

Strawberries and Cream Colorblock Top - Simplicity 1422 Button Up Shirt

Hi guys!
I have a sewing post for you today. I know, it's been ages since my last one but I really haven't had much sewing time in the past 6 months. So now that I'm finished with uni and don't have work until next year, I have abundant free time! I've finishes two projects this week, and I am stoked with both of them. Today I present to you Simplicity 1422, my Strawberries and Cream Shirt!

Simplicity 1422 - Strawberries and Cream Shirt
Simplicity 1422 is a basic button up shirt/mini dress pattern with 4 different views. Views A through to C are sleeved versions with no inserts. View D, the view I chose, is sleeveless and has inserts in the front and back.

Simplicity 1422 - Source
Before starting this project I had a think about what I wanted out of a shirt and colorblocking is something I haven't really done yet. I went to spotlight and bought 0.7m each of cream and strawberry coloured polyester georgette and some lightweight fusible interfacing. When I unfolded the pattern the sizing was XS to XL, which surprised me, I haven't seen that before. From my measurements (34.5" Bust, 31.5" Waist, 41" Hip) I decided to cut a small as there was a lot of ease built into the pattern. I didn't want to have inserts in the shirt front or back, so I pinned the the insert pieces to the shirt pieces, taking seam allowances into account.

Simplicity 1422 - Strawberries and Cream Shirt
I changed the colours up a bit on the pattern by using the pink on the front  and yoke pieces as well as the under collar. The cream I used for the back, collar and button placket. I think the contrast colours add interest to the shirt. I finished the hem with a 4mm hemmer foot before adding the placket, so the raw edges are all tucked away.

Simplicity 1422 - Strawberries and Cream Shirt
Now onto the changes I made. There are a few, mainly to do with the bust. After trying on the shirt for the first time and finding no ease at all in the bust, I remeasured myself and found a 4" increase, essentially eliminating all the ease. So I had to add in little triangular pieces on each side seam. Because of the fabric type all the seams were finished using the french seam technique and then pressed to the front and top stitched down. 

Finished side seam
I had to unpick all three row of stitching and then add a french seam in for each side of the triangles I added. I didn't want any raw edges as this fabric will fray. Here's the result of the work (sorry about the sideways pics!):

Added Triangle - Outside
Added Triangle - Inside
Pretty nicely finished I think :) Because of the added space, there was excess fabric coming out of the armscye, so I also added darts to make the amrscye sit flat. 

Bust Dart - Outside
For the buttons I wanted a covered placket, so I added in just over an inch to the width of the right side and added in an extra fold, kinda like making a paper fan. I really like this feature, especially considering the buttonholes aren't the best. Making a covered button placket is pretty easy and I think it makes a huge difference to the overall feel of the shirt. It's classier, especially considering my button skills aren't the best.

Covered Button Placket
After adding in all the changes, I then got to the last step of the shirt, finishing the armscyes. Not my favourite part. I decided to do an inside/invisible bias finish where the seam allowance is flipped to the inside and the bias tape is sewn over the top. At least the uneven edges can't be seen!

Invisible Bias Finish
Yay, so all finished! This shirt took me a while because of the bust issue I had. For the next one (yes there's a next one and it's already done!) I graded from an M at the bust down to an S for the rest of the shirt. This means that the other pattern pieces can stay as S as the shoulders are unchanged as is the neckline.

Simplicity 1422 - Strawberries and Cream Shirt
I'm really happy with this shirt. I went to the effort to finish all the seams properly and make sure I was happy with the fit. The pattern itself is also pretty good, so customisable! I'm sure I'll make the version with inserts one day, I'd love to add some lace. But the back panel will need some work so I can wear a bra with it!

Thread: Gutterman 000
Needle: Schmetz Microtex
Fabric: 0.7m Cream Polyester Georgette (Enough left over for another collar and button placket)
            0.7m Strawberry Polyester Georgette
            0.5m Ligthweight Fusible Interfacing
Notions: 6 Pearl Buttons
Time: 10 hours (eep, the bust wasn't working!)
If you're going to make this shirt, the detain in the finish is what takes the time. There's a lot of threat used in this project and I topstiched everything!

What do you think of this Strawberries and Cream button up top? Do you like the colorblocking trend?

Pins, Patterns and Polish

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